• 3 Apr 2024
• ⌘
• 8 min read

Table Contents

• 簡介 Introduction
• 作者 About the author
• 比較 Comparisons
• 第一章：人（I. People）
• 媽祖 Mazu Godness
• 豆花 Douhua
• 蔣中正 Cash My Check
• 下旗 Wet Flag
• 民進黨 Green Light
• 韓粉 Korean Powder
• 第二章：群（II. Street）
• 就醬 let it be
• 牌 Banners
• 賓與火 Mates & Matches
• 那隻猫 Django
• 第三章：信（III. Faith）
• 華人、漢人與中國人 Hanren, Huaren, and Chinese
• 復活 Jesus
• 青天白日滿地紅 Blue White Red
• 第四章：天 (IV. Nature)
• 紙錢 Joss Paper
• 鳥巢 Birds Nest
• 凸 Convex
• 珊瑚 Coral
• 下完了沒？ Enough?
• 仙人掌 Cactus
• 防波堤 Breakwaters
• 棕櫚葉 Palm Fronds
• FIN

This is a digital version of a physical exhibition held by Frigallery in Umeå, Sweden, in 2024. The target audience was locals in Umeå, so there are some explanations and comparisons that are relevant to them.

簡介 Introduction

This exhibition that shines a spotlight on Taiwan, showcasing diverse elements such as street scenes, architecture, social events, nature, and everyday life through photography. The photos, captured between 2017 and 2023, depict Taiwan today, with its blend of cultures and lively differences. Drawing from my experience of living in Taiwan for almost two decades, I’ve captured its essence. Using vintage film cameras from the 1960s to the 1990s—such as medium format, SLR, rangefinders, and point-and-shoot—the collection evokes a sense of nostalgia. Alongside the photos, we’ll display objects from Taiwanese homes to further illustrate their culture.

作者 About the author

Before immersing myself in photography, I explored music, graphic design, and video production as hobbies. Then, I stumbled upon the Magnum Photographers and discovered the artistic and storytelling potential of still images. Street photography became my passion as I explored the stories of regular people, especially those dealing with social issues, conflicts, and wars. Inspired by photographers like Chang Chao-Tang, Bruce Gilden, Ernst Haas, and Daidō Moriyama, their work motivated me to think further about the significance of taking the camera out to the streets and capturing meaningful pictures. Their timeless captures refreshed my perspective, affirming the enduring power of visual storytelling in every frame.

比較 Comparisons

I asked my flatmate what will be a great introduction for a European, he told me comparing China & Taiwan will give him a better view how is Taiwan, as usually people knows more about China than Taiwan. My other flatmate told me you can also compare Taiwan to Sweden.

Comparison of the population of Taiwan and Scandinavia

第一章：人（I. People）

媽祖 Mazu Godness

These beaches serve as potential entry points for a hypothetical Chinese invasion of Taiwan, given the country’s rugged terrain that limits alternative routes of entry. Despite portrayals in Western news outlets that may suggest otherwise, locals generally remain unfazed and continue to enjoy themselves, even though they are less than 200km from China.

New Taipei City, 2020

You may wonder why they are not wearing swimwear at the beach, a question I’ve often asked myself. It’s common to see Taiwanese swimming in the sea fully clothed, wearing shirts and long pants. This may be due to cultural norms or they don’t usually really swim when they go to the beach, because of dangerous swirls and currents that can quickly drag swimmers out to sea. In fact, many beaches forbid swimming for this reason. Taiwanese sailors often pray to Mazu, the Sea Goddess, for protection. Perhaps it’s wise to offer a prayer if you want to avoid ending up in a fisherman’s net someday.

豆花 Douhua

In Taiwan food is a religion, like what it does for Italians in Europe. People always compare where is better and there is a fierce competition in the culinary scene. Is common to see bustling restaurants boast long queues, while neighboring establishments remain almost deserted. This is a douhua street stand. Douhua is a Chinese sweet or savory snack made with silken tofu.

Taichung City, 2019

This dessert is typically served with a variety of toppings such as kidney beans, milk, tapioca balls, taro paste, sweet potato balls, and liquid brown sugar, among others. That’s why you can see they have many containers for each ingredient.

蔣中正 Cash My Check

Chiang Kai-shek was head of the Nationalist Kuomintang (KMT) party and led the Republic of China (ROC) in mainland China from 1928 to 1949. After the KMT’s defeat in the Chinese Civil War by the Chinese Communist Party (CCP) in 1949, he governed the ROC from Taiwan until his death in 1975. Chiang imposed martial law and conducted the White Terror, suppressing dissents. He remains a controversial figure, viewed by detractors as a brutal dictator responsible for civilian massacres and political repression. However, some historians argue that despite his flaws, Chiang implemented reforms that improved Taiwan’s economy and social conditions, including advancements in women’s rights and land reform, and safeguarded Chinese national treasures at the National Palace Museum in Taipei during the 1949 retreat. Last but not least, “Cash My Check” was one of his memorable nicknames.

下旗 Wet Flag

In a 2018 referendum, over 70% of voters opposed same-sex marriage and supported the removal of homosexuality content from primary school textbooks. The referendum was influenced by a well-funded campaign led by conservative Taiwanese and American Christian groups, as reported by the New York Times. However, this vote did not affect the court ruling. On May 17, 2019, Taiwan’s parliament passed a bill legalizing same-sex marriage, making it the first country in Asia to do so.

Taipei City, 2020

The event in the picture, held on May 17, the Day Against Homophobia, was one of the only public celebration worldwide due to strict COVID lockdowns, according to the organizers. It took place in Liberty Square, also known as Chiang Kai-shek Square, housing the controversial Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall, as well as the National Concert Hall and National Theater Hall, which evoke mixed feelings among the populace.

民進黨 Green Light

The are two main parties in Taiwan, the KMT and The Democratic Progressive Party (DPP) Founded in 1986, a year prior to the end of martial law. KMT was the historically dominant party, which previously ruled the country as a one-party state. On the other hand, the DPP has traditionally been associated with a strong advocacy of human rights, emerging against the authoritarian White Terror that was initiated by the KMT, as well as the promotion of Taiwanese nationalism and identity.

Taipei City, 2020

In the image above, a pro-democracy demonstration about Hong Kong took place outside the DPP headquarters following the Party’s victory in the 2020 presidential elections. Participants took the opportunity to be heard by the huge crowd of reporters and the DPP party leaders.

韓粉 Korean Powder

Taipei City, 2020

These were demonstration events organized by supporters of the KMT. Some slogans included “Taiwan will be safe”, “people will be prosperous” and “The common people choose a president, choosing a president from the common people.” Generally, hardcore KMT supporters are older individuals. The picture above, it was election day, and some young people were gathered outside the KMT headquarters, laughing and drinking beer, as opposite of the people inside the square. They weren’t KMT supporters; rather, they were there for “看戲” (watching the play), entertainment, witnessing the KMT’s defeat.

On the banner is written: "Taiwan will be safe and people will have money" Taipei City, 2020

Taipei City, 2020

第二章：群（II. Street）

就醬 let it be

Taipei City, 2020

It is a common thing among many Taiwanese to adopt the attitude of “if it works, let it be”, that is why is common to see uncared cars, old furniture, old home appliance. Additionally, the high humidity, hurricanes and hot climate contribute the appearance of the vehicles, rooms and streets looks more “rusty” and “messy”. Many people reuse stuff that they found on the streets like doors and banners for their home DIY repairs, fences, etc.

Tainan City, 2021

As many ethnic Chinese, in general, Taiwanese are skilled money savers and investors. On average, savings rate in Taiwan is around 36% of their earnings and according to UBS, it is the 14th country in the world by median wealth per adult, more than the Sweden, US and Singapore, something unimaginable for locals a decade ago.

牌 Banners

Tainan City, 2021

Taiwanese streets are usually pack with unlimited banners, lights and neons. 崇安1魚餃麵 沙茶麵 (Chongan 1 Fish Dumpling Noodles Shacha Noodles), the stores name, hand written their own banners, not common nowadays, even in street stands.

“魚麵＋魚餃” (fish noodles plus fish dumplings), “櫻花蝦” (Sakura shrimp flavour) can be read on the banners. As well as their banners, their noodles are handmade, and even maybe the restaurant construction itself.

賓與火 Mates & Matches

Some years ago I flew to Penghu, the smallest county in Taiwan formed from a collective of archipelagos. The view from the plane resembles the shape of a dragon making an “O” shape. In 1171, poet Lou Yue described a place across the sea from Quanzhou, identified as Penghu, that had thousands of sandbars called “Pinghu” (flat lake) because of the “encircling shape of its inner coastline”.

Map of the main Islands in Penghu

Due to its nature being an narrow island with strong winds, all the buildings are susceptible to the corrosion of salt in the air. To protect against corrosion, you’ll notice that all the air conditioners are not yellow because it’s the only model available, but because their only anti-rust paint is yellow.

On picture above, you can visualize a banner with an array of small lights around that reads “開心俱樂部” (Happy Club). It’s designed to hint at a nightlife spot for men to have a “happy” time. With a booming fishing industry, many men who are not native to the island live far away from their families and spend their nights in such places after their return from the sea.

Penghu County, 2021

那隻猫 Django

As I walked through Zonghe District in New Taipei City, I saw Django, a cat with a car, driving while the rest of you were sleeping. How can a cat with a criminal record drive a car?

New Taipei City, 2021

This photograph reminds me of a Taiwanese song from Angel Baby, called “Django”, which I was listening to when I encountered this colossal tree in full bloom, its flowers looks like as they were celebrating its last day of courtship, akin to a peacock displaying its feathers. In contrast, the building behind it seemed to be weathering with time, with rusting metal window railings adding to its aged appearance. There are always peculiar places to discover in Taiwan, much like scenes from a Ghibli film.

第三章：信（III. Faith）

華人、漢人與中國人 Hanren, Huaren, and Chinese

Foreigners often express surprise upon learning that the official name of Taiwan, to this day, remains “中華民國” (Republic of China), differing by only one English word from “中华人民共和国” (People’s Republic of China). Approximately 40 years ago, Taiwan’s official map still included the entire territory of China. When asked about their identity, many Taiwanese people offer varied responses; some may hesitate, while others may affirm their Chinese ethnicity based on their ancestry. While most acknowledge their Han ethnicity, the term “Huaren” (Chinese person) may evoke uncertainty, as it blurs the distinction between Chinese nationals and those of Chinese descent.

Tainan City, 2021

Moreover, responses to such questions vary across different regions of Taiwan, with higher rates of pro-Chinese sentiment observed in the north, Moreover, responses to such questions vary across different regions of Taiwan, with higher rates of pro-Chinese sentiment observed in the north, where there is a larger population of Waishengren (外省人) — which means people from other regions — and their descendants.

Waishengren refers to migrants who arrived in Taiwan from mainland China between the Japanese surrender in 1945 and the end of the Chinese Civil War in 1949, during the Kuomintang retreat, during that period 2 million Waisengren “escaped” to Taiwan, in a Taiwan that only have 6 million of locals, most of then also ethnically Han what that were settled there for a couple of centuries.

復活 Jesus

It was the night of the presidential election vote count. In this image, we can see that she already knows the results and she was not in the winning side. Surrounding her are several blue and red flags and clothing, which are the common color scheme of KMT supporters. Despite speaking to major news channels, she isn’t a well-known figure; the news reporters were present due to the location being the KMT headquarters.

KMT Headquarters, Taipei City, 2020

“Are we waiting for war to happen, with all of us dying and then resurrecting?” she said tearfully to the news. Like many KMT supporters, she was afraid of a potential conflict with China if the DPP, the opposition party, were to win.

青天白日滿地紅 Blue White Red

Penghu County, 2022

This roundabout, bearing the longest name in Taiwan—青天白日藍十貳腳星圓環 (Blue sky, white sun, twelve-legged star roundabout)—features the emblem of the Kuomintang (KMT) party. With a diameter of around 17 meters, it is likely one of the largest still existing today. On its top stands a soldier statue gazing towards China, which lies approximately 150 km away, translating to a 5-minute flight by jet.

第四章：天 (IV. Nature)

紙錢 Joss Paper

Tainan City, 2021

In downtown Tainan, a family burns joss paper in a metal tank on one of Taiwan’s most important worship days. Joss paper, though not paper sold by Joss, are papercrafts or sheets made into burnt offerings common in Chinese ancestral worship and the veneration of deceased family members on holidays and special occasions. Similar joss paper is also used in worship of deities in Chinese folk religion. Many worshippers and temple goers visit stands around the temple selling joss paper, even at 2 am.

Tainan City, 2021

Metal content analysis of ash samples from joss paper burning reveals the emission of toxic components such as aluminum, iron, copper, or lead. posing health risks. Consequently, some cities have banned the burning of joss paper, and many temples have installed filters on their chimneys to reduce air pollution and health issues.

鳥巢 Birds Nest

Guandu Palace Cave of Buddha may appear as an ordinary temple from the outside, but upon entering, you’ll discover a 100-meter-long cave adorned with carved art along both sides. This cave is one of the few Buddhist grotto statues in Taiwan. Another unusual sight was the abundance of pigeons tightly packed together, a rarity compared to Europe.

Taipei City, 2020

凸 Convex

Tainan City, 2021

Taiwan, like other islands such as Japan and the Philippines, is situated between the Eurasian and Pacific tectonic plates, resulting in its rugged mountainous terrain. With only 30% of its land being flat plains, the rest comprises hills, plateaus, and mountains. This topography shapes many cities, leading to curved streets and roads that follow the natural path of rivers.

Consequently, many streets are narrow, allowing little time to spot oncoming vehicles at intersections. Unlike Western European countries where narrow streets are typically one-way, in Taiwan, they accommodate traffic in both directions, necessitating the use of numerous round mirrors for visibility. In fact, it’s often said that it’s easier to encounter a one-way street than to be struck by lightning.

珊瑚 Coral

Penghu County, 2021

Upon arriving in Penghu, you may wonder why the walls of old houses and farms appear ‘wrinkled’. Upon closer inspection, you’ll discover that they are entirely made of coral, as seen in the wall at the top left of the picture. The island, being situated in a warm tropical environment, is surrounded by coral reefs. Nowadays, it is illegal to remove coral from the sea, with fines of up to $50,000.

下完了沒？ Enough?

Taipei City, 2019

In the northern region of Taiwan, it’s often said that it rains every other day, making it common practice for locals to carry a compact umbrella at all times. It’s a familiar sight to see umbrellas hanging from balconies and windows for drying.

During rainy days, malls provide small bags for customers to stow their wet umbrellas, preventing drips indoors. Some months experience rain on up to 80% of days. After a typhoon, more commonly known as hurricane in the West, torrential rain can persist relentlessly for two or three days.

仙人掌 Cactus

Penghu County, 2021

This was my first encounter with wild cactus in Asia. The landscape resembles more the Canary Islands than the typical jungles found on the main island of Taiwan. Interestingly, Penghu even has a cactus-based drink.

Penghu County, 2021

The picture, located in a cemetery, was recently affected by fire, possibly caused by burning joss paper or a discarded cigarette. In this same cemetery, located on a small plateau, you can see 10-meter ships lying by the tombs, perhaps indicating a desire to remain close to their owners.

防波堤 Breakwaters

Penghu County, 2018

Taiwan, situated in the Pacific Ocean, experiences strong currents, making many beaches unsuitable for swimming due to their dangerous conditions caused by currents and eddies (circular currents). As a result, breakwaters are common along the coast to mitigate the impact of typhoons and big waves, featuring a distinctive shape not found in other countries.

There is an urban legend, often joked about, concerning the Taichung mafia (located on the central west coast of Taiwan) allegedly disposing of people they dislike by placing them inside these giant cement structures used for breakwaters.

棕櫚葉 Palm Fronds

Taipei City, 2019

Palm trees are a common sight in Taiwan, adding to the relaxed atmosphere and doesn’t clutter the view, but can clutter your life. In particularly dangerous cases, large palm fronds can weigh up to 40 kg, exerting significant force upon hitting the ground. To put this into perspective, that’s roughly the weight of an average toilet.

Just imagine walking outside, only for a ceramic toilet to fall out of a window ten stories up – it would be catastrophic. Unfortunately, exceptionally large palm fronds can have a similar impact. (Source: County Tree Services)

FIN

Here are some pictures capture during the exhibition.

Are you interested more about Taiwan, I have a a blog called Formosa about a small guide and its culture.

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